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  #11  
Old 03-13-2017, 10:49 AM
mclimie mclimie is offline
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Completely off the wall, but can you pour a performance resin (I'm thinking like a Smooth On Task 3 or 4, but maybe something else would be better, maybe Task 11) in molds?

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/task/

Make one perfect copy on your machine, mold up as many molds as you need, and just knock them out all day long with zero table time involved.

We did something similar for some cleats we needed on a semi-regular basis. I've attached photos. They only position, so I didn't bother making them nice and smooth.

Marc
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Last edited by mclimie; 03-13-2017 at 10:56 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-13-2017, 04:51 PM
kjoiner kjoiner is offline
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Hello,

I've been tied up on some other projects so I'm back to thinking about the strips. One reason I'm considering holding them with vacuum is that the sheet typically comes in bowed and I need to flatten it out so the rounded edges come out correct. I have one sheet of 24 x 24 x 3/16 material to experiment with. I may cut it into 12 x 12 pieces and experiment with hold down methods.

Kyle
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2017, 01:35 AM
Carter Whyte Carter Whyte is offline
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I have experience cutting UHMW 3/16 on a vacuum table; with the full force of a Hurricane black box focused on the 2'x4' grid (sheet same size) the sheet held well.. but cutting UHMW isn't always an attractive material to cut. Luckily for you; for some reason 3/16" from McMaster seems to cut different than any other thickness; or brand.. it cuts more like 'wood' and doesn't string up/melt like plastic. Weird; as I've cut 1/8 all the way to 2" and 3/16" is the only one that doesn't string up on me.
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2017, 08:07 AM
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Mick Martin Mick Martin is offline
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Using a CNC to cut the parts out will waste a minimum of 0.25" between parts. Using and table saw and miter saw with a stop block would be faster and more efficient.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2017, 08:10 AM
hefty hefty is offline
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Kyle,
I cut a lot of plastic and some UHMW. In general, I think the best thing you can do when working with any plastics is to add 2 air jets blowing as much air as possible down to where your bit is cutting. This has been the single best improvement I have ever done and has all but eliminated melting. I use 2 because I want the air to always be clearing the cut channel (they are ~ 180 degrees apart).
UHMW is hard to cut because it flex's. I have had best results using the Super O single flute bits from Onsrud. They have a very sharp rake to the edge that slices instead of chopping the material.
Good Luck!
John
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