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  #11  
Old 06-12-2018, 01:35 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Default For What it is Worth...

Things to make you think, I'm sure you can do better but everyone needs some ideas to throw away. That is what I am providing...

1. Lots of steep curves on the perimeter, just be sure the radius of the perimeter fits your smallest spindle sander. Leave the small radius a little larger than the spindle.

2. I would use a hardwood, just because I like it better. It will give you a nice edge. Locally, white oak is really cheap and carves nicely.

3. I might try a pocket for the photo?

4. Instead of the decorative border following the perimeter shape, I don't have a tool changer so I like to cut everything with a minimal tool changes. I would try it without the little border and instead maybe use the 90 degree around the perimeter to put a bevel on the edge. This will give you a little more white space, elbow room, and still create a little border effect.

5. Use a 90 on the lettering, not a 60 degree. Your text should be large enough to get a good depth.

6. Maybe a bold font, if not already.

7. A Walnut inlay drop in for the racket would be really nice. Cheap to add when your labor is free. Just takes time.

8. I might consider cutting the work about 0.015 deeper than needed, then painting and or inlay. Finally, shaving off the 0.015 inch from the top just before cutting out the perimeter. It would be finished when you remove from the table.

You can tell I don't do this for a living. I have way to much labor in this to get paid for what it takes for some of this extra time, like watching the paint dry.

Just wanted to share some thoughts. I'm sure what you already have a design that would be extremely appreciated by those receiving them.
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Stinger II, 48 by 48, 1.7 kW Spindle, FTC + Laser + Recoil + Vacuum, July 2012
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2018, 01:51 PM
TimPa TimPa is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: nw pa
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wow Charlie. what a gesture to offer your knowledge, experience, skill, and assistance on this project, I am very impressed in your kindness!
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2018, 07:56 PM
jbiddle jbiddle is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Canton, MI
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Charlie, thanks for those tips...
I was concerned that 12" wide hardwood would warp, hence the veneered MDF. I may regret that decision later.

I had a pocket in for the photo at first and my wife nixed the idea because her pictures are different sizes. I'll bank that idea though.

I did add the bevel around the exterior, but I left the trim border in as well.

I'd like to understand how to decide on which bits to use on the various cuts. Most of my work so far has been in making cabinets and carvings.

I didn't use a bold font, but I picked a different one for the bottom lettering, mostly to make it wider. I never thought of using bold.

I really do appreciate the feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie_L View Post
Things to make you think, I'm sure you can do better but everyone needs some ideas to throw away. That is what I am providing...

1. Lots of steep curves on the perimeter, just be sure the radius of the perimeter fits your smallest spindle sander. Leave the small radius a little larger than the spindle.

2. I would use a hardwood, just because I like it better. It will give you a nice edge. Locally, white oak is really cheap and carves nicely.

3. I might try a pocket for the photo?

4. Instead of the decorative border following the perimeter shape, I don't have a tool changer so I like to cut everything with a minimal tool changes. I would try it without the little border and instead maybe use the 90 degree around the perimeter to put a bevel on the edge. This will give you a little more white space, elbow room, and still create a little border effect.

5. Use a 90 on the lettering, not a 60 degree. Your text should be large enough to get a good depth.

6. Maybe a bold font, if not already.

7. A Walnut inlay drop in for the racket would be really nice. Cheap to add when your labor is free. Just takes time.

8. I might consider cutting the work about 0.015 deeper than needed, then painting and or inlay. Finally, shaving off the 0.015 inch from the top just before cutting out the perimeter. It would be finished when you remove from the table.

You can tell I don't do this for a living. I have way to much labor in this to get paid for what it takes for some of this extra time, like watching the paint dry.

Just wanted to share some thoughts. I'm sure what you already have a design that would be extremely appreciated by those receiving them.
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:00 PM
jbiddle jbiddle is offline
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I ended up changing to an applied racket head instead of the dish...it was the right way to go.

I only had enough Oramask to cover 3 of the plaques. Hopefully the others won't be too hard to paint...the veneer is prefinished.

When painting the letters with the Oramask on the surface, do you wipe off what's on the mask or just let it dry? Is there a window as to how long to leave on the mask after painting?
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  #15  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:15 PM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Assuming you're using acrylic paint, you can let the paint dry. If the surface isn't completely smooth, you may need a bleed coat .... probably clear. Only the first coat on a waterbased painted surface bleeds under your mask
If using oil-based enamel, you need to pull your mask off while the paint is still wet, otherwise it will "bridge", & you'll be missing huge chunks of your lettering
IF you're painting V-carved elements through the mask, sand it with 320 grit or so to break any bridges.
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  #16  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:23 PM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is online now
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James, I don't believe you'll have issues with solid stock warping if it was properly dried and milled evenly to thickness from both sides. I regularly work with wide stock in my furniture creations...it's a preference of mine...and haven't had any issues with stability.
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  #17  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:11 PM
jbiddle jbiddle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.MacMunn View Post
If using oil-based enamel, you need to pull your mask off while the paint is still wet, otherwise it will "bridge", & you'll be missing huge chunks of your lettering
IF you're painting V-carved elements through the mask, sand it with 320 grit or so to break any bridges.

Do you mean sand the Oramask before removing?
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:47 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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James,
For future reference, my preference for a 12 inch wide oak would be 2 to 4 boards glued together.
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Stinger II, 48 by 48, 1.7 kW Spindle, FTC + Laser + Recoil + Vacuum, July 2012
WinCNC 2.5.03, Aspire 9, PhotoVCarve, Windows 7 Pro SP1
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:11 AM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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jbiddle ... yes.

Gee, I wish people would use their real names. I've never understood all this secrecy. Back in my previous life ( long distance ) trucking everyone had a CB handle. Even if you were having coffee with someone, they wouldn't tell you their real name. I suspect most of the time these guys were married & " sowing wild oats", & didn't want anyone to know who they were.
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2018, 05:13 PM
jbiddle jbiddle is offline
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Well, here's the final product. Started the project Monday morning and I have 5 ready to go for my son's banquet tonight. Lots I'd would have done differently if I had more time, but I was feeling rushed in having 3 days. Thanks for all the advice.

James Biddle
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File Type: jpg IMG_2496.jpg (93.1 KB, 45 views)
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