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  #11  
Old 06-29-2017, 01:02 AM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Doug, you must have posted while I was typing. Your project looks good and I like your 3D work. Good choice of woods as well. How long did it take to cut that reaper?



I have a grizzly jointer 8 inch with the spiral cutterhead and it is worth every penny. The spiral cutterhead makes a big difference. I think any jointer that is properly set up is better than a table saw for glue up joints.
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2017, 11:47 AM
Art Mann Art Mann is offline
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I was a woodworker for 40 years before I was a CNC owner so this type of assembly comes easy. I glue up alternating cherry and maple pieces to make cutting boards that are 9+ inches or more wide and 15+ inches long. I then do a vcarve inlay with a graphic or a wedding couple message. This is a great way to realize some value out of the shorts I have left over from a project build. I mostly do special orders and sell word of mouth. Its not something you could do for a living but it provides a little money for a self supporting hobby.

1-DSC_0526.JPG
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Last edited by Art Mann; 06-29-2017 at 11:53 AM.
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2017, 02:09 PM
Xray Xray is offline
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9x12 took about 4 hours using a 1/32 ballnose.

No roughing pass, I generally do without those in most woods.

[Nice work Art, I have noticed your distinctive designs before]

I have done some browsing and it would seem that opinions are all over the place as to the need for a jointer.
A good % of guys use standard rip blades or the specialized Freud glue rip blades and go straight to clamping. Haven't made up my mind yet, offhand would be hard to justify the purchase of such a limited use machine.
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  #14  
Old 06-29-2017, 04:43 PM
Xray Xray is offline
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Exceeded my expectations, nice n flat.
Managed to slice off a thin slice, probably a bit more than 1/8 but I thickness sanded it where I needed it.

1 complication totally my fault, some of the wax paper on the bottom that I used to prevent glue lock got pinched between the 2nd and 3rd pieces, so I don't have any confidence in the bond of those, but the rest feels as solid as 1 piece and very little warpage.

Why do I even want thin slices like this ?
Mostly to make guitar pick guards on the scroll saw ... I suppose it could be done on CNC but probably just as quick scrolling, also avoid tearout and holddown issues doing it by hand.
I bet if I perfected my techniques a unique thin board like this would sell for $15 on craft sites, so there may be $$ even in the raw material.

With the rest of the block I plan to make 1911 pistol grips and maybe a fidget and yoyo, if thick enough.
Don't see any cutting boards in my future so I'll have to bend my brain to think up unique uses for glueups.
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2017, 01:33 AM
Xray Xray is offline
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On a roll, another composed of Sapele, poplar and leopard wood.

Cut another real thin slice, so far my system is working even without the proper glueup tooling.
At the very least though I should get a good Freud glue joint blade and I really need to send my resaw bandsaw blade in to be sharpened, its starting to strain making cuts.
I can slice near veneer with it when tuned, one of the best and most used tools in my shop.
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  #16  
Old 11-08-2017, 01:31 AM
Carter Whyte Carter Whyte is offline
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Careful using biscuits on 3D work; donít want to cut into the biscuits.. (I may or may not have done this before)
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2017, 10:16 AM
rcrawford rcrawford is offline
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A trick I use when gluing up large pieces. Since its impossible to get your jointer fence (or table saw blade) exactly 90 degrees, I lay up my boards before jointing them and draw lines across each joint. Then when I joint the edges, I put one line towards the fence, and the other line away from the fence (or facing up on the table saw, and facing down).

This way the two angles will equal exactly 180 degrees when the pieces are put together, and lay flat, even if your jointer fence or table saw blade is set to 85 degrees!!
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2017, 08:19 AM
Davemartin88 Davemartin88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrawford View Post
This way the two angles will equal exactly 180 degrees when the pieces are put together, and lay flat, even if your jointer fence or table saw blade is set to 85 degrees!!
Same way I do glue ups and works great, too well sometimes. I was selling a 6" jointer after buying a new Grizzly 8" model. Two gentlemen showed up and were ready to buy it and one mentioned how much trouble he had with glued up joints and how he could never get them right. I offered to show him how I did this and we proceeded to take a couple of scrap boards and made a perfect joint. After seeing this, he decided his current jointer was probably fine and left without buying mine. I sold it later that day but was a bit less helpful.
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