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  #11  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:48 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.davison View Post
If there was a way to include a small number of physical mount points for jigs, as opposed to T tracks, that would be workable.
Mike,
Russell has a great little hardwood donut design that glues into the spoil board. It has a hole in it that you drop in a tee bolt for jigs or clamping. I have been thinking about putting one of these hardwood donuts in a six inch grid on the table. Tee tracks would be gone. Just drop a clamp into the holes near the workpiece.

Something to think about...
Charlie
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:55 PM
mike.davison mike.davison is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie_L View Post
Mike,
Russell has a great little hardwood donut design that glues into the spoil board. It has a hole in it that you drop in a tee bolt for jigs or clamping. I have been thinking about putting one of these hardwood donuts in a six inch grid on the table. Tee tracks would be gone. Just drop a clamp into the holes near the workpiece.

Something to think about...
Charlie
Yes, indeed, that is an approach to consider. I too was quite impressed with Russell's hardwood insert method. I wasn't clear if he was doing this on/in a vacuum table, however. If so, you clearly wouldn't have any vacuum where the hardwood mount point was, but perhaps that's ok if the mount points are small, don't leak and are not at spoil board edges (and those points are likely all true for his method). Hmm.......
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2017, 11:56 PM
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Gary Campbell Gary Campbell is offline
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Mike...
One or the other... one for T tracks, one for vacuum
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2017, 08:40 AM
rcrawford rcrawford is offline
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Mike, I use the maple inserts in my spoil board, and I still use my vacuum. I only use the whole table vacuum for sheet goods, and the inserts don't seem to affect it much. But I'm not cutting out really small parts with the spoil board vacuum set up, just larger cabinet parts.

I bought 4 vacuum motors from Lighthouse (about $100 each - I got the 220V, about 7.5A motors). Most of the time I just turn 2 of them on, but I have a one way valve set up in the plumbing so I can turn all 4 on if I'm leaking too much. I just built a box and mounted the motors on top, so they are very loud but stay cooler. I heard they don't last for long, but I've been using this set up for a few years now and still have the original motors.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2017, 11:46 AM
rcrawford rcrawford is offline
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Here's the file for those maple inserts, for anyone who wants to use them.
Attached Files
File Type: crv3d Clamping plugs.crv3d (530.0 KB, 40 views)
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2017, 01:08 PM
mike.davison mike.davison is offline
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Russell,

Thanks for outlining your method. I really appreciate it. Looks like a very good approach for the sort of work I do.
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2017, 08:06 PM
mike.davison mike.davison is offline
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Default 3 Zones, No T Tracks, Alignment Pins

Please, please, please.... Would anyone here be willing to review my spoil board plans? Thanks! VCP files attached.

I purchased internationalmarinemike's Black Box Cyclone vacuum so that settles the "which pump" question. Looks like a reasonable choice for a Stinger II 4x4.

Russell's hardwood T Bolt mount points look like just what I need so I've included them in my plan.

In an effort to keep 4x8 panels aligned as they are moved over my 4x4 machine (Vectric Tiles) I added hardwood blocks into which steel alignment pins can be placed. Not nearly as good as the retractable alignment pins that are commercially available, but hopefully a workable low-cost approach.

General plan: 3 layers, 1/2" each: base, plenum and bleeder. Base simply attaches to machine frame. Plenum provides 3 zones with passages that are at least 3/8" x 3/8".

The bleeder board is LDF. It has 12 Maple mount points for T bolts, which allows smaller items to be held down with jigs or clamps. It also has alignment pins, placed in Maple blocks, to accurately align 4x4 and 4x8 sheets on this 4x4 machine.

Again, please see the Vectric files. Comments? Thanks!
Attached Files
File Type: crv Spoil Board v6.crv (2.93 MB, 35 views)
File Type: crv Clamping plugs.crv (479.0 KB, 22 views)
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  #18  
Old 01-30-2017, 02:20 AM
Steve Lynch Steve Lynch is offline
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You know? I would try using double sided tape first with a 3D cut. Since getting a vacuum, I actually made a new table top from 1" MDF, and triple coated it with rustoleum. I haven't needed a hold down since..

If I'm doing a lithopane, or a carving where the router will be running for hours, I use 3M tape, and just stick the piece to the spoilboard.

Maybe if you try a piece that way, you might find that you make your life easier, and allow for a more seamless Vacuum experience..

You'll find that the black box will hold quite well on a 4x4.
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2017, 01:09 PM
mike.davison mike.davison is offline
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Thanks Steve. So, double-sided tape rather than T Bolt mount points for the non-vacuum work. Makes sense for may use cases. I'll have to give it some thought.
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  #20  
Old 01-30-2017, 01:59 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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Mike,

Finally remembered to look at your files. Thanks for sharing. You have some good considerations from Steve. I'll add some thoughts. Remember that I often would say that it takes at least 9 ideas to get 1 idea worth pursuing.... In other words, just thinking out loud.

I often feed sheet goods through the table, cutting something longer than 4 feet, or cutting in just a 4 foot section of an 8 foot sheet. Like an end of a sheet.

I added a tee bar track in the area beyond the bleeder board. That way if a sheet happens to be 4 by 4, I can clamp it down for good measure. With the vacuum you are getting you probably don't need that.

I would consider slightly different zones. Think about your projects and how you would prefer to locate them on the table. Then set your zones. The zones do not have to be the same size or shapes. As a minimum I would consider rotating the zones 90 degrees. The vacuum intake hole does not need to be centered in the zone.

If you decide to go with the maple inserts, I would have a few more.

Finally, I like the locating pins for straightening things out. I would put a couple across the width of the table, maybe 24 inches apart so you can place small projects lined up over the best zone.

Again, just rambling....This looks great and may be stolen at some time....
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