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  #11  
Old 07-22-2018, 10:52 AM
mfirlotte mfirlotte is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Quebec, Canada
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You're right Keith. I do use the FTC and Tool Change.

Here are my instructions from my "Working Document" that I used to do a few canes....


This is the setup for an FTC machine with a recoil/lathe so model (cane) can actually use the FTC pad.

- "Initialize" button
If required (may not need the next 2 steps as may be continuing from a previous lathe job):
- Type G49 then press enter, this will turn off the blue box next to Z.
- Type G92 then press enter, this will turn off ALL green boxes.
- Move bit over to open safe area above the lathe to begin to set Z0.
- Install a bit in the collet and slowly lower the bit to the center line of you’re A axis (use my Z Zero Lathe block that was sized in height for this purpose)
- Press “Calibrate Switch”
- The router will lift and move to your FTC touch pad, lower and touch off. (This will set a blue box next to your Z)
- Press “Lathe Home” button.
- To move tool away from metal of the chuck, Type G0 Y3.875 (means will start carving 1 1/4" from end of head stock in my case).
- Press “Zero XY” (this will set a green box next to X and Y)
- DO NOT CLICK ON “ZERO Z” you don’t want a green box next to Z

- Load and execute TAP file for this job


WARNING
When you are finished with using the recoil/lathe you MUST re-calibrate your tool length measuring switch to the spoilboard (Calibrate Switch).

If you don’t do this you could machine right through your spoilboard Z0 because recoil/lathe Z0 is lower than your spoilboard Z0 so you will NOT have any protection.
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Mitch
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Stinger 1 (2014)
1.7Kw spindle / Recoil Lathe
Performance Package (FTC / On-Off via G-code / Laser Cross Hair)
Aspire 8 / WinCNC / Hexagon
Epilog 45watt Laser
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  #12  
Old 07-22-2018, 10:15 PM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Winchester, Virginia
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Mitch, there is more than one way to skin the cat but I still prefer my method. I can check alignment from the chuck to the tail stock and Z0 as well. I want to ensure that all is in perfect alignment.

I do appreciate your taking the time to share your method as well. I had not heard of anyone else using a block of wood. Thank you. Cheers.
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Keith Hyde, Winchester, VA
2016 Stinger 1, 1.7KW HF Spindle HSD
Performance Package Pro, Vac, lathe, Aspire 9
Former Marine and retired Seabee Master Chief.
Furniture is my hobby not my vocation.
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2018, 11:09 AM
mfirlotte mfirlotte is offline
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Thanks Keith...no problem. Like you say...many ways to sometimes achieve the same results.

When I first started with my CNC, the learning curve was very, very high. I had a lot to learn. And the recoil was very difficult to understand for me and I came up with this simplistic method.

It may not be the most accurate or reliable method but it worked at the time and I continue to use it today. For doing a few canes and walking sticks, I find that it worked for me so I've been hesitant to change the method.


This site offers so much advise and guidance and as I've learned...there is more than one way to achieve the same result. And that is simply awesome for all us beginners or hobbyists out here.

Thanks again.
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Mitch
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Stinger 1 (2014)
1.7Kw spindle / Recoil Lathe
Performance Package (FTC / On-Off via G-code / Laser Cross Hair)
Aspire 8 / WinCNC / Hexagon
Epilog 45watt Laser
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2018, 01:14 PM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Mitch, you are absolutely correct the recoil is difficult which is why we don't see many projects using it. I am sure there are many folks who have never really made anything with because of the learning curve.

I have done a few things with it and one I shared on here but I need to do more and stop procrastinating. I bought a bunch of bits from Magnate to try out and have not. One of the other problems with the recoil as with my regular lathe is it make a huge mess. I am a neat freak and I want to control all chips and sawdust with my Oneida DC system but that doesn't work well the recoil or lathe. I made up a collection container of sorts out of cardboard for the recoil which helped some but it looked very ghetto. I need to work on that problem as well. I will keep sharing and I hope you and others do as well, many heads are better than just one. Cheers.
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Keith Hyde, Winchester, VA
2016 Stinger 1, 1.7KW HF Spindle HSD
Performance Package Pro, Vac, lathe, Aspire 9
Former Marine and retired Seabee Master Chief.
Furniture is my hobby not my vocation.
hyde.consulting@comcast.net
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  #15  
Old 07-24-2018, 10:04 PM
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Gary Campbell Gary Campbell is offline
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It appears to me that most using the FTC to set Z zero to the lathe are overthinking it and making it much more complicated than it needs to be to work well. Any time additional steps are taken the chance for mistakes is increased.

Here are the two methods:
1) Place the z at the center of the lathe and press calibrate switch. Previous user offsets (green box) should be removed (before or after, doesn't matter). Don't forget to set back to the table when done.

(for clarity) 1 OR 2

2) Put the first tool in the spindle and "measure" that tool. Move that tool to the z center of lathe and press "zero z". that all there is to it. Subsequent tools are measured to the FTC pad
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2018, 01:13 PM
mfirlotte mfirlotte is offline
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Thanks Gary. I use method #1...but...to help me find centre of lathe, I use my wood block.


LOL Keith...me too. Enough chips to mulch all the flower beds if I collected it.
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Mitch
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Stinger 1 (2014)
1.7Kw spindle / Recoil Lathe
Performance Package (FTC / On-Off via G-code / Laser Cross Hair)
Aspire 8 / WinCNC / Hexagon
Epilog 45watt Laser
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