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  #11  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:34 AM
tom klass tom klass is offline
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Doug, I just went and experimented with minwax's wood filler and threw in some India ink and filled in some lettering I engraved in some scrap wood. Works pretty good. Their wood filler is almost like bondo small amount of resin and a little hardener mix it up spread it a few minutes pair it off with a chisel and sand it. If it's on light wood with the India ink you may want to seal the wood around the area first the dust and colorant bled into the surrounding grain a little.
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2014, 12:51 PM
Corona Corona is offline
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I've done a lot of epoxy inlay work but for things living indoors Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty works great and is about a cheap as you can get. Mix it with some Titebond 3 and it will be mostly water proof if needed. Lots of info about colouring it on their site.

http://waterputty.com/
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2014, 01:06 PM
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Gary Campbell Gary Campbell is offline
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Doug..
In some cases Bondo and powdered concrete dye works well too. Sands well and takes finish good too.
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:30 PM
Xray Xray is offline
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Thanks for the info .. In this case, don't think the concept of putty for a fill would work with brushed metal, it is very sensitive to any foreign substances, even fingerprints are tough to get off.
They again maybe it would work with an acetone cleanup, but I want to try something that flows first so it can fill in tough to reach pockets and hopefully self level.
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2014, 11:36 PM
Xray Xray is offline
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Have done a few of these now with epoxy flood fill, generally a PITA but quite a nice effect.
This is 15x9", here is the process I use to make them.
First I take a 15x9" square of the Romark laser etch brushed aluminum, which of course is made for laser etching but can be adapted to routing. I use spray adhesive to fix it to a .5 15x9" block of mdf. I made all the cutouts with an engraving bit, my goal is to just scratch the surface of the mdf, I just want to go through the material and nothing more. I then make a cutout of it all using a .08 endmill, cuts through this stuff like butter but I use slow feed speeds to avoid undue stress on the thin bit.
That done, I pry off the parts that are going to be flood filled, sand the edges, blow it off and commence to flooding. For the flood I use large disposable hypodermic needles. Really hard to gauge when a pocket is full, first one I did I overfilled and had to wipe off the mess off the metal best as I could. Now I underfill, once it settles I add more as needed, doing other pockets in the mean time.
This epoxy is pretty tolerant, gives you a goo half hour to work with before it starts to set up. Once set up [next day] I paint the edges black by hand ... And usually some of the epoxy soaks into the mdf, so I need to do another light round of flooding.

I have learned from my mistakes. I was taking off the protective plastic from the metal, as its a hassle to remove little pieces at a time. Also, I thought the epoxy might grab it on the edges, making it difficult to remove.
I have found that not to be the case, I can leave it on and the metal is all pristine once peeled off, no more epoxy smears. Also am going to spray paint the edges black right after cutting, a real PITA doing it by hand with all the nooks and crannies. Also am going to try clear coating the mdf before I glue the metal on, just might stop the epoxy from absorbing with would be a huge blessing.
Also, I eyeballed the table I was working on level, big mistake. Working surface needs to be perfectly level in order to achieve uniform results ,,, Even though the epoxy looks fairly rigid compared to a liquid, it will flow like any other viscous substance until it sets up.

All in all pretty happy with the results, stuff it pretty cheap, easy to mix and can be any color you chose.
I am going to start experimenting with other thin metals, this Romark stuff is slick but very expensive [$70 for a 2x4' sheet, which I can make 5 of these with]. I did try using chimney flashing but it ripped up, but I was using double stick tape then and a thin endmill, I think if I glue it down and use an engraving bit or vbit instead, just might come out perfect and a helluva lot cheaper than Romark.
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Last edited by Xray; 04-01-2014 at 11:42 PM.
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2014, 02:31 AM
Steve Lynch Steve Lynch is offline
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Look for electronics potting Epoxy.. It comes in about 30 colors, and does exactly what you want. We used it to fill cover our circuit boards on components we didn't want tampered with.

Check out http://www.pottingsolutions.com/
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