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  #11  
Old 10-22-2014, 01:29 PM
Xray Xray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Campbell View Post
When Doug says: "Id hate to think about having to eventually pry that glued one off, would be impossible without wrecking it.", I would submit that if it were glued, instead of prying it off, you simply surface it and glue another on top.
True, would be restricting to Z movement though gluing 1" on top of each other.

I have a .75 mdf slab screwed onto the original spoilboard, if I ever needed that extra .75 in Z I'd simply unscrew, if you are glued you are screwed. That was really my point, and the only practical reason why you'd want to remove an attached spoilboard.
I don't think one should be bound to a permanent installation when a permanent installation is not necessary.
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2014, 03:28 PM
TinKnocker TinKnocker is offline
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I did steel screws. I will have to keep a good eye to make sure I never hit them, but they are buried in deep. To you folks that use glue: Any issues doing aluminum with a glues on board? If no then maybe I will go with glue as well on my next board.
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  #13  
Old 10-23-2014, 06:02 PM
Mark Johnston Mark Johnston is offline
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I think you can screw down the spoil board if your very careful when you surface the board, but sometimes I'm thinking about all the other things and forget stuff (maybe just me). Even if you counter sink you will eventually have to remove the screws to surface plus I've hit some screws when fasting down larger pieces to the spoil board.

The other comment about the added height reducing the Z was because I installed a new spoil board (3/4") and was trying to cut some shapes out of 2 1/2" wood which means I need a bit that would stick out of me collet at least 2 5/8" to cut all the way through without hitting my collet. I also had to have a safe Z height that would at least clear my wood by 1/8" and not hit my Z stop. I got the job done but it was very close to not fitting and I had to play with the program to make it work. I have since raised my router bracket up about an 1 inch to give me a little more room. I also wanted to try Kyle's plotter pen holder which takes more Z than I had before but I should be able to use it now.

One final point when I screwed the board down without glue. I probably didn't use enough screws because after a while I was getting a small amount of spring in the MDF which was noticeable on some projects. It may have been humidity changes, not sure. I did at one time use the plastic screws but didn't feel like they really held as good and the metal screws.

Now I glue it and screw some areas and clamp until dry then remove all screws and it has been very good, at least for me.
I agree with the comment that you don't want your spoil board to be out of the range of your cutting. I did that the first time and as I surfaced down the ridge on the spoil board that wouldn't cut got in my way more than once.

This is a good thread thanks for posting it.

Mark
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  #14  
Old 10-23-2014, 06:54 PM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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For reasons stated above, I used to screw & now I glue. Tim Merrill convinced me ........
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  #15  
Old 10-23-2014, 06:58 PM
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james mcgrew james mcgrew is offline
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I to Screwed for years, now that I am older and more experienced I glue !!

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  #16  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:15 AM
lockwood lockwood is offline
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I have had my machine for a while now and have used it very little. I hope to use it more this winter. I have a question, when I first got it I just mounted a MDF spoil board and surfaced that. Should I have removed the tracks, surfaced the original board it came with and then add my MDF, and surfaced that? My thinking tells me it is fine the way I did it and it would be the same even flatness either way because once surfaced the top layer is flat.
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  #17  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:35 AM
adirondak5 adirondak5 is offline
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That's how I did mine John , I did not resurface the original board , I just attached 3/4 mdf over the original with nylon screws countersunk and surfaced that once installed , I have seen it done both ways but don't know why you would need to surface both , unless the original is really out of plum /square with the router /spindle



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  #18  
Old 10-27-2014, 02:11 PM
lockwood lockwood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adirondak5 View Post
That's how I did mine John , I did not resurface the original board , I just attached 3/4 mdf over the original with nylon screws countersunk and surfaced that once installed , I have seen it done both ways but don't know why you would need to surface both , unless the original is really out of plum /square with the router /spindle



Thanks, that is what I thought.
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  #19  
Old 12-22-2014, 03:36 PM
abesau abesau is offline
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Default How about on Phenolic Table Top? Glue or Screws?

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Originally Posted by ericw View Post
Okay Guys, another new guy question. Attaching 1" MDF spoil board with screws or glue or...?

Eric, Owner
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I got the Phenolic top so, would Screw be best for spoil board?

Thanks
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