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  #1  
Old 09-14-2020, 10:44 AM
TimPa TimPa is offline
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Default tool sharpening

have a job cutting many parts (1 1/8' thick) out of cherry, mostly using 3/8" down cut. found that brand new bits leave no watermarks, so have the cleanup spiral pass using new bits only to help.

using amana and whiteside, but need to consider getting them sharpened, or better tooling, or...? any good sharpeners recommended? its ok if they come back undersized.
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Last edited by TimPa; 09-15-2020 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:38 AM
Jim Becker Jim Becker is offline
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The two I have heard of are Vortex and Connecticut Tool. I have no experience with them however
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:45 AM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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After sharpening, assuming you go that route, I would measure the newly sharpened bits diameter and put that updated info in the tool database so your cuts are accurate.....just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:17 PM
guitarwes guitarwes is offline
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I would figure in new replacement tooling when giving a price. After using a new tool to just up to your "non-acceptable edge finish life", replace with a new one and use the previous bit as the rougher. Feeds/Speeds play a huge role in tool life also, so be sure you're optimizing that.
From my experience, Onsrud and Vortex is always great tooling, but more expensive than others.
Carbidetoolsource.com has good sharp bits but no 3/8", only up to 1/4".
Centuriontools.com has good sharp bits ($20 for a 3/8 down 1-1/8" LOC)
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:05 PM
TimPa TimPa is offline
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thank you all for your inputs, it is appreciated! I have been trying hard to optimize the bit life. last pass removing .020" is 14k@90 ipm on a spiral cut. i start getting watermarks after about 10 pcs. any suggestions on a more optimum feed would be so much appreciated...
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Old 09-15-2020, 01:11 PM
Logan Y Logan Y is offline
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Depending on the shape you are cutting I'd run my ipm much faster than that. I have an older machine and I typically cut in the 200-250 ipm range even at much greater depths. I also don't do any production work so I am far from an expert.

Use some scrap and set your speed to 200 ipm in vectric. That way you can use the speed slider in wincnc and go as low as 100 ipm and has high as 400. Use the speed slider to figure out what your optimum speed will be. A lot of production guys take the approach of keep cutting it faster until the quality degrades. Once you reach that point take one step back and you'll find your sweet spot.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2020, 03:53 PM
sgodding sgodding is offline
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Dinosaw, located in Selinsgrove PA, does our resharpening. You can also try Ridge Carbide in NJ. Dinosaw has a rep in our area who picks up and delivers the tools - not sure if they go your direction.
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Old 09-15-2020, 04:54 PM
guitarwes guitarwes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPa View Post
thank you all for your inputs, it is appreciated! I have been trying hard to optimize the bit life. last pass removing .020" is 14k@90 ipm on a spiral cut. i start getting watermarks after about 10 pcs. any suggestions on a more optimum feed would be so much appreciated...
Try cutting everything (roughing) in a CLIMB direction except for the onion skin cut thru pass. Cut the onion skin pass in the CONVENTIONAL direction. Seems like you're going a bit slow. The more the heat builds up on your bit, the faster it's going to wear out. You should be able to touch the bit after you cut something (AFTER it STOPS spinning) and it not be hot. If it is, you're feeding it too slow or your speed is too fast.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2020, 08:29 AM
sgodding sgodding is offline
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As noted above, your speeds and feeds are causing the bits to burn up faster. To get the right chipload on a 2-flute 3/8" cutter in hard wood, if your RPMs are 14,000, you should have a feed rate between 400-500 ipm. If that is too aggressive for your machine, then you need to slow the RPMs down. 12,000 RPMs give a feed rate of 300-400 ipm. If this is still too aggressive you should still see improvements with ipm above 200.

Also keep in mind that a downcutter will build up heat faster because the chips are trapped in the kerf.

Finally, if your parts are small and the machine is never able to accelerate to full speed then that will also contribute to heat build up. Again, reducing RPMs will help, but you'll probably never be able to get optimum tool life in this situation.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2020, 09:28 AM
TimPa TimPa is offline
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i guess i have to take my training wheels off! when i started it seemed that 200+ ipm was wicked fast. but many of my projects are small, i'm not sheet goods. i will heed your advices and speed her up - thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge!

i suspect that there will be a happy place with extended bit life, good cut quality, and not shaking my panther apart - can all live. without my training wheels...
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