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Old 11-26-2018, 05:46 PM
DVE2000 DVE2000 is offline
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One of my colleagues from work has a 2 year old toddler. She'd bought a second-hand race car crib that can convert into a toddler bed. When they converted it into the bed, they she realized that a 27.75" x 12" piece of material was required to cover a gap at the foot of the bed. She has a workshop, and cut a piece of pine. And then thought to ask me if I could use my machine to carve a race track for matchbox cars.

It took all of 10 minutes to design, but then I said I could add some clipart and carve letters and stuff... So we bought some clipart from Design and Make, and I created the recess dishes with Aspire. I also created the raised "1" and "R"

I made some mistakes with the pine, hit some Aspire bugs, and then finally thought, screw it, and glued up some Hard Maple and machined it to depth.
IMG_7176.jpgIMG_7175.jpgIMG_7174.jpg

Most of the 3D machining was done with a 1/8" tapered ballnose bit, but the center of the "award" and car grille and centers of the tires were re-machined with a 1/32" tapered ballnose, to really pull out the detail. There were a couple other snafus, but mostly I'm quite pleased with it. She may fill the recesses with epoxy, but she'll use varnish instead of paint with this.
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2018, 06:04 PM
DVE2000 DVE2000 is offline
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I made an box about 20 years ago for a buddy to store his keys and wallet and stuff. I made wooden hinges with the IncraJig, but I unfortunately used walnut. The hinges broke over the years, and when he mentioned it to me a couple months ago, I had him ship the box to me so I could fix it. It was one of my first projects, and has mistakes galore, but that's woodworking.
56124791613__CFC45DC5-9BB4-49ED-A55F-3ADA25CC6FF9.jpg

I used my machine to cut the old hinges out of the box:
IMG_7018.jpg56124956032__DE5729EB-300F-4678-A336-27682E894844.jpg

So seeing now I have the capability, I decided to carve my name underneath the bottom of the box. And promptly forgot to measure the tool. So I blew a hole in the box. After saying every four letter word I could think of (and I know a LOT, so it took awhile), I fixed it by created a stepped rectangular shape for an insert. My buddy is originally from Hong Kong and came to the US as a kid. So I carved a tiny Chinese dragon onto the insert.
IMG_7185.jpg

I made the new hinges out of hard maple. I had to do it the old-fashioned non-CNC way.
IMG_7184.jpg

It came out ok. The mistakes irritate me. But it is what it is. I wasn't going to make a new one from scratch...
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:37 PM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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Very nice, Gary. I have been hesitant to use my 1/32 ballnose because of cut times but it sure did pull out the details nicely. Guess Im gonna have to pull up the rocking chair and try it out sometime soon.
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:54 PM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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That's really nice work and I'm glad to see you're use of the small, 1/32" BN cutter...I'm about to experiment with some smaller tips myself for a few things that need more detail.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:52 PM
DVE2000 DVE2000 is offline
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Thanks guys. If I recall correctly, the 1/32 machining was just over 30 minutes with the reduced areas.
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  #6  
Old 11-27-2018, 08:13 PM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVE2000 View Post
Thanks guys. If I recall correctly, the 1/32” machining was just over 30 minutes with the reduced areas.
Question for you.....did you do an initial pass using a larger, say 1/8 bn and then redo the cut with the 1/32? If so did you set a temp boundary for just the 1/32 bn? Im curious about you procedure.
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How to count to 10 in Windows:
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Last edited by drummerjg; 11-27-2018 at 08:15 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2018, 10:26 AM
DVE2000 DVE2000 is offline
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I did an initial 3D roughing pass with a 1/8" end mill, and then use a 1/16" tapered ball nose (because it's long - model goes about .325" deep) for the 3D finish pass. Then I created a circle around the section with the laurel wreath and "1" for the 1/32" second finish pass. I did it this way because I was hoping the detail of the leaves with the 1/16" bit would be good enough and I could skip the 1/32" bit. I'd cut a test piece in some plywood, which doesn't carve nearly as well.

I'm not sure the initial 3D roughing was strictly necessary, because I used an Offset Pass for the 3D finishes. The machining is from the outside in, which means that the load on the ball-nose bits aren't that high, because I use a 9% stepover.

So by the same token, it probably would have been fine to start with the 1/32" bit from the beginning! I think I saw this mentioned on one of the Vectric videos somewhere.
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:13 PM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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Thanks, Gary. Im anxious to give the1/32 a try now.
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Joe Garber
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Stinger 1 SR24
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Laser Pointer
HSD 1.7kw Spindle
Indexing Lathe
WinCNC, Aspire 9.5, PhotoCarve
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drummerjg@icloud.com


How to count to 10 in Windows:
1,2,3,95,NT,2000,XP,Vista,7,8,10
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