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  #11  
Old 06-03-2018, 04:39 PM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Walters View Post
Here is my first “test” piece before I cut this sign I posted. The gold leaf is really tricky and I found that when I used my little soft brush the small flakes went everywhere and sticking to just about anything in its path . Here it is after I used a tooth brush and soapy water to get all the small flakes off everything. It turned out pretty good, now I know the order of things so the lettering does get all wonky with gold pieces. It’s always nice to do a test piece first.
Bob, did you cut this like the piece you posted at the start of the thread? If so how did you manage to paint the lettering so the top and the sides are the same color? That has been driving me nuts....trying to do that and I have not been smart enough to solve it. Unless of course I cut letters out, paint them and then
glue them into the plaque.
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2018, 04:45 PM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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This thread has been very interesting and informative...and I appreciate both the functional discussion and the dialog on pricing. I just cut HDU for the first time on Friday afternoon and do intend to use it for sign work when it's the right material.
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  #13  
Old 06-03-2018, 05:26 PM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Hmmm ... I never noticed that.
My question now, is ..... why in the world would you want to paint your returns the same colour as the letter-face? If you're viewing the letter on any angle beyond 10* or 15*, the letters will all run together & your sign will be illegible.
Plus, it's a lot more work, no matter how you do it ..........
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  #14  
Old 06-03-2018, 05:49 PM
UglySign UglySign is offline
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We usually prep the surface well, good prime & spray (Fuji HVLP) it to the desired finish.
Let dry well then apply a paint mask over entire surface.
Start digging in revealing the inner areas. Prime & paint accordingly.
Same for Gold leaf.
Start peeling the paint mask carefully. It usually comes off nice.

Clean the surface well before priming. Peeling a nice finished paint job is not fun.
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  #15  
Old 06-03-2018, 06:10 PM
drummerjg drummerjg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.MacMunn View Post
Hmmm ... I never noticed that.
My question now, is ..... why in the world would you want to paint your returns the same colour as the letter-face? If you're viewing the letter on any angle beyond 10* or 15*, the letters will all run together & your sign will be illegible.
Plus, it's a lot more work, no matter how you do it ..........
See...this why I need help from the experts. I always thought it looked “cool” in Aspire when I viewed a prospective sign that had the letters all one color. I attached a little sign my brother asked me make....simple street sign, and I gave him several options. I liked the look of the attached photo but he wanted vcarved lettering. And since I couldnt figure out an easy way to make it, Im glad he did!
I would not have thought about the letters running together.

Ps...texture is from TRs posts...thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg D0DD883F-5900-4A81-A6D5-402CD24904E0.jpg (39.6 KB, 48 views)
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  #16  
Old 06-03-2018, 07:44 PM
Bob Walters Bob Walters is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.MacMunn View Post
If you let your paint dry well, you'll have less trouble with gold shards sticking. On oil based paint, a wee dab of baby oil on a cheap Q-tip. removes. On acrylic, good old human spit on a cheap Q-tip beats everything..
Always use an oil based paint or burnishing primer under gold leaf
Another wee tip .... a textured background will always give your sign a higher value, & is often less challenging to finish
The texturing I thought would look better but after doing the toolpath it said it would take almost 5 hours to run it which is bizarre because it only took about an hour to do the initial "clearing" with a 1/4 inch bit. I don't know if I have something set wrong on Vcarve Pro. That's running at 250 IPM.

Bob
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  #17  
Old 06-03-2018, 08:12 PM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Bob, something wasn't right. If you were cutting a .bmp, i could see it. That's why I never do those. If you were thinking of using my "checkered" texture, it should cut a lot faster than that, & in one pass. I usually set depth at .25" or so, +30* on the first toolpath, & -30* on the second one. You only have to run the "cleanup" pass once.
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  #18  
Old 06-03-2018, 09:03 PM
Bob Walters Bob Walters is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.MacMunn View Post
Bob, something wasn't right. If you were cutting a .bmp, i could see it. That's why I never do those. If you were thinking of using my "checkered" texture, it should cut a lot faster than that, & in one pass. I usually set depth at .25" or so, +30* on the first toolpath, & -30* on the second one. You only have to run the "cleanup" pass once.
Hummm, where would I find this "checkered pattern/"
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2016 Stinger II SR-44
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  #19  
Old 06-03-2018, 10:24 PM
Charlie_L Charlie_L is offline
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Maybe post #4....
http://www.camheads.org/showthread.p...ight=checkered
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  #20  
Old 06-04-2018, 12:12 AM
Bob Walters Bob Walters is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie_L View Post
Awesome, thank you
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2016 Stinger II SR-44
Fast Tool Change
Laser Cross Hair
3.0 kW Spindle
1200 oz Digital Stepper Drive System
Remote Handheld Keypad
Vectric VCarve Pro 9.0

www.cool-signs.com
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