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  #11  
Old 03-03-2011, 02:55 PM
Bob Savage Bob Savage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Jarrard View Post
Richard your english is great.

You can cut aluminum with the stinger but I would not do it as a production run. The Cobra is more solid and will be able to keep up with the stress of a lot of aluminum cutting. There are more and larger bearings on the Cobra as well as larger and more powerful drive motors and spindles to handle the load.

Welcome to CAMheads.
Joey,

Are there any concerns with cutting aluminum using a router as opposed to a spindle?
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  #12  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:15 PM
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Michael Mezalick Michael Mezalick is offline
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I think at a lower feed rate and a smaller depth of cut would keep the router under less stress.
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:32 AM
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james mcgrew james mcgrew is offline
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Default From my notes and edits

here is some more on Aluminum


How to Machine Aluminum: We did some experiments with machining aluminum. We had both success and failure (which itself is a success, when experimenting).

Here are the settings you may find useful when finding information on Aluminum:
BIT USED Onsrud 63-622 (1/4″ diameter, single flute, upward spiral)
DEPTH OF PASS USED .109 (7/64″)
ROUTER SPEED USED 10,000 RPM
PLUNGE SPEED USED 25 IPM
TRAVEL SPEED USED 15-20 IPM
We have noticed that the alloy makes a big difference. Here is a guide to aluminum alloys from McMaster-carr:
Aluminum Machinability
Machinability
Machinable alloys can be cut, drilled, shaved, turned, reamed, tapped, threaded, or otherwise machined.
Excellent—These alloys are ideal for machining. When cut, they will not require extensive post-machining cleaning and will produce very small broken chips.
Good—These alloys will have a good to excellent finish after machining and will produce curled or easily broken chips.
Fair—Alloys have a satisfactory post-machining finish and will produce continuous chips.
Poor—Difficult to get clean part after machining.

It is a softness issue, 3003 will bend but not chip like 6061, it has a lower melt spot

Reference: Mcmaster-carr website http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-aluminum/=fczose

Our lone mistake involved getting the bit too hot. We increased the depth of pass too high and it quickly got too hot. The basic rules to follow are that it should be relatively quiet, and the bit should not get hot and should even be cool to the touch shortly after the cut. I would change your settings at any signs of heat, like smell or discoloration.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aluminum types.jpg (11.8 KB, 40 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf aluminum.pdf (67.2 KB, 43 views)
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  #14  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:19 AM
rcrawford rcrawford is offline
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I use 1/4" up spiral single O flute aluminum bits from Amana. They recommend 18000rpm and 120ipm (so would work with a router). I get the best results with a climb cut and .05" depth. A little mist from my mister (not much), and I blow the chips out of the kerf so they don't gum up the cutter on the next pass. If I'm cutting deep (I use mostly 1/2" thick aluminum), I'll put a couple drops of lube in the kerf once it gets past 1/4" (I use tapping oil - a drop for each pass keeps the chips from sticking to the cutter or the sides in a narrow, deep kerf).

Edit: I'm using 6061, which on Jim's chart is not the best for machining. So using one the the better machining aluminums would probably be a lot easier!
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Last edited by rcrawford; 09-22-2013 at 11:21 AM.
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