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Old 07-03-2018, 05:47 AM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Default Epoxy question

I rarely use epoxy, so I need some advice .....
My son owns a "supplement" store, & he's purchased a fake palm tree for his "smoothie bar", & I'm making him a table top that will wrap around the tree trunk. Somewhere, he saw a table top with an image pocketed into it, about .5" deep, & filled with epoxy, and the entire table top was epoxied as well. He liked it a lot, & wants something similar .
So .... my question is ,.... should I fill the letter pockets with one pour, & then do the top in another pour, or do it all at once? Pockets are .375" deep.
Thanks, in advance ....
TR
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:17 AM
neal_meyers_jr neal_meyers_jr is offline
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My personal experience with Cypress clocks and epoxies is do the pour at one time. Fill the carving, trying to avoid air bubbles (Heat gun or torch will help break them up) then pour the top. Again breaking up bubbles with heat. I also think most epoxy manufactures make products that break up the bubbles too. Use Very dry lumber too.

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Old 07-03-2018, 09:45 AM
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Gary Campbell Gary Campbell is offline
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T.R...
Depending on the porosity of the wood, you may want to apply a thinned down coat to seal the surface first. Really cuts down on bubbles on large pours.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:58 AM
T.R.MacMunn T.R.MacMunn is offline
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Neal & Gary ... it's on 20lb Corafoam.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:11 AM
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Gary Campbell Gary Campbell is offline
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Sorry, TR.. no experience with pouring over HDU. In contradiction to most internet advice givers, I withdraw my advice!
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:24 AM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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There may still be a good benefit with pre-coating the foam...it will allow getting the "nooks and crannies", small as they are, completely filled and in contact with the material before you do the rest of the pour. Working it in with a disposable brush gets rid of any air that might otherwise be captured in those little spaces. It's a similar thing to dealing with that first coat of paint on the foam...
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:35 AM
neal_meyers_jr neal_meyers_jr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Campbell View Post
Sorry, TR.. no experience with pouring over HDU. In contradiction to most internet advice givers, I withdraw my advice!
Ditto Rodger
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:52 AM
TinKnocker TinKnocker is offline
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I just did a live edge table that I will post pics of once I get the legs finished. I had to do seal coats to seal the wood up before doing the flood coat. If you're painting the HDU then that is probably your sealcoat right there. I would really suggest doing a test piece, because I worry how the HDU will react when heat is applied. In theory HDU is closed cell foam and shouldn't need the seal coats. I ended up upgrading my torch for the flood coat because all I had was a pencil tip torch and it would have taken forever.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:09 PM
msnowman msnowman is offline
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As my father is fond of saying "there is more then one way to skin a cat" this is how I do epoxy. Not saying it is right and others are wrong, just what I do. I don't have any experience with epoxy on HDU but this is my process for wood hope it helps.
  1. colored crack/void fill pour
  2. sand to 220
  3. 1-3 sealer coats depending on wood absorption sanding with 220 between each coat. The purpose of the seal coat(s) is to stop air from transitioning from the wood into the final pour as it cures.
  4. lettering/design pour
  5. sand with 220
  6. final (thick/leveling) clear top pour

Note: When wiping off the dust I do not use a solvent. This is something a manufacture recommended to me.

As others mentioned use a propane torch to get rid of bubbles. Start the torch away from the surface of the project so any dust/debris that come flying out don't go into the project. On sealer coats it is rare to get all the bubbles and trying could end up burning the project as the coats are thin. On the final (thick/leveling) coat go over the entire project with the torch once after pouring, wait 5 minutes and go over it again. Wait another 5 minutes and torch it one last time. It should be bubble free at this point. The waiting is for heat added to the epoxy by the torch to dissipate. If scalded, the epoxy will have white in the finished product.
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Old 07-04-2018, 01:18 AM
Xray Xray is offline
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Ditto the sealer, I'd try to stay away from flame if possible, if you reach the flash point project will be ruined in an instant. Heat gun would likely work with less risk.

What I do is I use a pair of battery operated scissors [any tool like that will do] and set it on the material by the fill, the agitating drives up any bubbles, if they don't pop themselves I give them a little help with a needle - And make sure you are on a dead nuts level work surface.
Keep in mind a little is better than too much, fill very slowly [alot of guys use hypodermic fill needles just for this purpose, more control].
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