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  #1  
Old 07-05-2018, 08:52 AM
Doug S Doug S is offline
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Default Vacuum plenum question

I am in the final throws of setting up my "new to me" cobra and I was looking at my spoilboard and plenum.
I am going to resurface the old spoilboard to test my skills and the tramming of the spindle and such.
As I was looking at the plenum, I noticed it has several spots where it has risen above the frame.
I figure this will not be good as I start to surface my new spoilboard and attempt to get it perfectly flat.
I assume I should remove the old spoilboard and add new fasteners where I see the issues.
Would the group recommend surfacing the plenum and what about repainting it afterwards.
I will post pics in a day or so showing the install and the three-phase generation.
Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2018, 09:29 AM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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That looks like a moisture issue...
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2018, 09:33 AM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Default Fwiw

Doug, I think it would be more important that the plenum is perfectly flat. Looking at the plenum to the frame where it is rounded maybe deceiving. You could use your spindle with a pointed bit and move it over the whole plenum.

Gary Campbell has a method for check vacuum to determine if it leaks and how much. I doubt that your phenolic is warped if it was flat at the factory is should be good now. Mick Martin has a great program for resurfacing spoil boards which you can download and he has a video. Gary has many videos as well.

Check your spoil board for flatness when the vacuum is running. There are many others on here much more experience than I. Cheers mate.
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Keith Hyde, Winchester, VA
2016 Stinger 1, 1.7KW HF Spindle HSD
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Former Marine and retired Seabee Master Chief.
Furniture is my hobby not my vocation.
hyde.consulting@comcast.net
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:31 AM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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Is that Plenum phenolic or MDF? The edge looks pretty rough...
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Jim Becker

SR-44 (2018), 1.7kw spindle, Performance Premium, USB, Keypad, T-Slot table (y-axis configuration), WinCNC, VCarve Pro

Non CNC stuff...

SCM/Minimax - slider/JP/BS
Festool "a good collection"
Stubby - lathe
Oneida Cyclone
more...

Retired from full time work in the telecom industry 9/2017
Commission work for equestrian tack storage and other custom furniture and cabinetry
Located Bucks County PA
http://bvww.us
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:03 AM
Doug S Doug S is offline
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Default Spoilboard is MDF

The plenum is painted MDF and the spoilboard is raw MDF.
The previous owner has several deep gouges in the surface so I am replacing it this weekend.
Just want the plenum and the spoilboard to be as flat as possible to keep from having overcuts in the spoilbaord when cutting sheet goods.

Thanks for the help.
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:21 AM
Doug S Doug S is offline
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Default Looks like a moisure issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_in_PA View Post
That looks like a moisture issue...
My machine is in my workshop which is NOT CONDITIONED. Here in Central Texas, we do have our share of humidity. What are the thoughts on keeping the table from absorbing moisture or is it an issue?
In the new shop (6 months down the road) the Cobra will be living in Air Conditioned luxury.
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:21 PM
Jim_in_PA Jim_in_PA is offline
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Completely sealing the MDF can help, but the OEM MDF tables are not made from water resistant/outdoor MDF. I think you indicated you bought this machine from someone else, so the existing table probably has absorbed a lot of moisture over time. You might consider making a new table...Camaster can provide you with the file to cut a new plenum board from the material of your choice. If you do MDF, consider the water resistant/outdoor version but it still will need to be sealed on the bottom and edges for sure. Or you could opt to upgrade to a water impervious material like phenolic...not inexpensive, but it will probably last longer than you will.
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Jim Becker

SR-44 (2018), 1.7kw spindle, Performance Premium, USB, Keypad, T-Slot table (y-axis configuration), WinCNC, VCarve Pro

Non CNC stuff...

SCM/Minimax - slider/JP/BS
Festool "a good collection"
Stubby - lathe
Oneida Cyclone
more...

Retired from full time work in the telecom industry 9/2017
Commission work for equestrian tack storage and other custom furniture and cabinetry
Located Bucks County PA
http://bvww.us
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2018, 02:21 PM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Default Fwiw

Doug, obviously Jim has better eyes than I do since it looked like phenolic to me. Cutting MDF is very messy and hard on bits in my experience. If you can afford it I would opt for the phenolic or aluminum and be done for life. Also phenolic and aluminum will not catch fire like MDF as some on here can attest. Cheers.
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Keith Hyde, Winchester, VA
2016 Stinger 1, 1.7KW HF Spindle HSD
Performance Package Pro, Vac, lathe, Aspire 9
Former Marine and retired Seabee Master Chief.
Furniture is my hobby not my vocation.
hyde.consulting@comcast.net
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  #9  
Old 07-05-2018, 02:42 PM
TimPa TimPa is offline
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new person with dumb question, when you say "completely seal" the mdf, are you just suggesting the edges, and sealing the spoil board down to the plenum? completely sealing would restrict vacuum, no?
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  #10  
Old 07-05-2018, 04:19 PM
keithrhyde keithrhyde is offline
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Tim, there are no stupid questions. You just have to seal the edges. I use a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water but you can use leftover paint etc. Cheers.
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Keith Hyde, Winchester, VA
2016 Stinger 1, 1.7KW HF Spindle HSD
Performance Package Pro, Vac, lathe, Aspire 9
Former Marine and retired Seabee Master Chief.
Furniture is my hobby not my vocation.
hyde.consulting@comcast.net
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