Anyone got a sources for 3" to 4" OAL bits?

[kt88saturate]

I'm looking for something hardy, like Amana 46590 but I need a 1/8" ball mill as well.

I'm cutting through 2.5" width boards that are laminated together, and my current bits are having an issue with clearance.

A solid set would be a 1/4" flat, 1/4" ball, 1/8" ball if possible for finish cuts.

Also, I'm pretty new to this so I'm just choosing bits based of my interpretation of what I've read. I'm cutting hardwood.

[Charlie_L]

Call US Router Tools. I have purchased some 4 inch long tools from Joey.

[Logan Y]

https://www.usroutertools.com/Long-B...Wood-s/365.htm

[Pscdouglas]

In my past experience a 1/8" diameter bit with that much exposure will whip around out of center under even the most conservative load. I've used a 1/4" diameter BN and end mill and the cut quality was alright but it was LOUD from running out. Be aware that there is a lot of flex in a small diameter bit that is exposed that far.

If you are cutting foam, it might be alright, but nearly any other material might require a design change to get passable results.

[kt88saturate]

Originally Posted by Pscdouglas

In my past experience a 1/8" diameter bit with that much exposure will whip around out of center under even the most conservative load. I've used a 1/4" diameter BN and end mill and the cut quality was alright but it was LOUD from running out. Be aware that there is a lot of flex in a small diameter bit that is exposed that far.

If you are cutting foam, it might be alright, but nearly any other material might require a design change to get passable results.

This is exactly the type of incidental wisdom I am trying to gain from this forum.

Not sure what to do, I may just use 1/4 ball end for detail work instead.

I have some .022" bits I am going to use for cutting very small detail work, so I do believe at some point and load you can use whatever size is suited for the task, but the 1/8" ball nose would be used on multi square foot jobs, not engraving.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll experiment and see if I can get it to work for what I'm doing, but i won't expect it to.

Originally Posted by Logan Y

https://www.usroutertools.com/Long-B...Wood-s/365.htm

Yeah that's about what I found on that site as well. The OAL of the 1/4" is 6" which seems like it may flex on wood? Otherwise, I got the gantry lift so I could probably use this bit since I'd have .75" left over but that doesn't give me a lot of margin for additional jigs, holds, or clamps.

I got the started kit from camaster and I believe it came from us router tools? Fantastic bits, though. I'll have to call and see what they have as you guys suggested.

[Jim Becker]

I have a 4" long, relieved shank .25" upcut from Amana which can "go deep", but honestly, it chatters like heck and the actual cutting length is pretty short, so no way to do a "last pass" with that tool. They do make it in both square end and ball end, however. The longest .125" tool I have is called a "foam" bit and that's what it's intended for. I'd be uncomfortable trying to cut wood with it at any kind of depth. For guitar body cutouts, I actually bought a .375" bit that has a 1.75" cutting length. Yea, the kerf is wider, but the bit can handle things without fear and it doesn't chatter a bit, pardon the expression...

[kt88saturate]

Originally Posted by Jim Becker

I have a 4" long, relieved shank .25" upcut from Amana which can "go deep", but honestly, it chatters like heck and the actual cutting length is pretty short, so no way to do a "last pass" with that tool. They do make it in both square end and ball end, however. The longest .125" tool I have is called a "foam" bit and that's what it's intended for. I'd be uncomfortable trying to cut wood with it at any kind of depth. For guitar body cutouts, I actually bought a .375" bit that has a 1.75" cutting length. Yea, the kerf is wider, but the bit can handle things without fear and it doesn't chatter a bit, pardon the expression...

Yeah I think I'm looking at just cutting the stock down with a bandsaw first so it doesn't contact the spindle. I'm dealing with limited floor space so I was trying to avoid getting a band saw.

I was also trying to build a neck through without messing around with the stock position too much. It looks like I have to mill the head stock in a separate path with it flat.

What's really causing the issue is I'm trying to route 2.5" thick wood all the way through for the neck laminations but there's seemingly no wood bit around that enables this.

I did purchase and receive a GWS 312113 bit but I'm not sure its for wood? Its five flute so it looks like I'll have to set the RPM down to 6k.